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BASED UPON SCIENTIFIC PRINCIPLES, INCLUDING THE SELF-VARYING SHOULDER, IN 
CONNECTION WITH THE DIVISION OF THE BREAST MEASURE. 



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ILLUSTRATED BY SEVENTEEN PLATES OF FINELY ENGRAVED DIAGRAMS AND ONE PROPORTION 

TABLE WITH FULL INSTRUCIIONS FOR DRAFTING THE VARIOUS 

STYLES OF GENTLEMEN'S GARMENTS. 




PUBLISHED 1!Y 

^ne. CKas. ^. Stone do. Culling School, 

CHICAGO. 




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STONE'S 



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"PARAMOUNT-CUTTER 






A SYSTEM FOR CUTTIHG GARMENTS. 



-BASED UPON- 



Scientific Principles, including the Self-varying Shoulder in connection with the Division 

of the Breast Measure. 






THIRD EDITION REVISED. 

-BY 



6 CHAS. J. STONE, 



CHICAGO, ILL. 



Illustrated by Seventeen Plates of finely Engraved Diagrams and One Proportion Table 
with full instructions for Drafting the various Styles 
of Gentlemen's Garments. 



PUBLISHED BY 

THE CHAS. J. STONE CO. CUTTING SCHOOL, 

CHICAGO. 



^- ' V 



IN DEX. 



^ 







Diagram i. Illustrating Neck and Shoulders, 

2, D. B. Frock, .... 

3, S. B. Frock, .... 

4, Skirt and Sleeve, 

5, Sleeves Continued, 

6, Sack Coat, .... 

7, Box Overcoat, .... 

8, Fat Man's Frock, 

9, Explanation of Upper Shoulder, 
lo, Explanation of Lower Shoulder, 
I I, Single and Double Breasted Vest, 

12, Vest Continued. 

13, Inverness, .... 

14, Shoulder Cape, 

15, Trousers, .... 

16, Trousers for Fat Men, 

1 7, Knee and Riding Breeches, 
Proportion Table, ..... 
How to Take a Measure, 

Practical Points on Measuring, 

Practical Remarks on Cutting, (Coats, Vests and Trousers), 

Notes on Making Garments. 

Advice to Young Cutters, .... 

Our Cutting School Terms, Etc. , . 



Page 

13 
15 

• 17 

18-21 

22 

25 

27 

29 
31 

33 
39 
4' 

43 
45 
47 
49 
51 
53 
34 
35 
36-37 
54 
57 
58 



Copyrighted By 

HE CHAS, J. STONE CO., 

1881. 

ALL RIOBTS RESERVED. 




*N placing the Third Edition, revised, of the Paramount Cutter before the trade I 

herewith tender my thanks for the warm reception given the first and second 

editions of this work. This, the third edition has been enlarged, revised and 

simphfied. The principles here laid down are the result of years of practical 

experience and with the most satisfactory results. The Diagrams illustrating- 

the principles set forth have been drawn by myself and engraved undet my personal 

supervision with the utmost care and are calculated to demonstrate accurate instructions, 

made so plain that anyone who will give this system a careful study will find the entire 

work one of the most reliable on the subject that has ever been offered to the trade. While 

every page of this book is the result of my own reflection and the experience of many years 

at the Cutting Board, it is also proper to state that I have consulted with many of our Finest 

Artists, both in this country and Europe, in order that the present work might embrace the 

modern and most approved methods on Garment Cutting. The work commences with the 

production of properly fitting and correctly balanced garments for the normal fignre. A 

mister knowledge of the business is acquired by first (jualifying ourselves in the knowledge 

of producing^ Fit for a normal shape, and in the next place to change correctly from the 

regular to fit and conform to the various changes as we meet them in every day practice. 

this I clearly illustrate in my Self Varying Shoulder Measure. 

In conclusion, let all those who intend to study and practice these new principles 

lay aside all prejudice and follow out the instructions as herein given, and in so doing, 

you will find that complete success will follow and you will become a hearty endorser of 

this valuable work. 

THK AUTHOR. 

10 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM 1. 



I now invite your careful attention to the principles which govern Coat Cutting. In 
order to make this as plain as possible I have desinged Diagram i, showing the Neck 
and Shoulders and locating the shoulder point. This point is looked upon by most cut- 
ters as the key to the whole Coat Cutting, and I must say that I never saw any system 
that located this point to any certainty. In my younger days I paid out hundreds of 
dollars to the most successful cutters for instructions on the shoulder point, and they 
always gave it to me about right ; but there was a good deal of guess-work about it for 
different shapes, and I never discovered the shoulder point until a few years ago, when 
in company with a young doctor friend of mine I attended a lecture (or clinic) on 
anatomy, and in the professor's lecture to the students on the hurflan skeleton, explaining 
every part of the body, I concluded that I had at last found the shoulder point; and when 
I came home I put jt into practice and found it to be correct. I will now explain this 
point. The round ring where all lines meet is the centre of the body, but as you will 
observe by looking at any well built man you will find that his head is not on the centre 
of the body, but one twenty-fourth of the breast forward, locating the centre of neck 
where the star is ; the neck is one third of breast, from x to x, making it a circle of one- 
sixth ; from i to 2 is ^ of breast, and from i to 3 is J^ of breast. Now, as the neck 
gorge wants to follow the shin collar it must be cut down in front as represented. 
This will clearly show you how to get the shoulder point, and you can rely on it every 
time. The shoulder point will always be the same for all shapes, as a No. 15 collar will fit 
that size neck no matter what kind of a shoulder the man has, high or low. The neck gorge 
must be the same size from x to x, as a man's neck is. See Diagram 9 for long and short 
necks, and Diagram 10 for very erect and very stoop shoulder, regulated by the self- varying 
shoulder. 



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HOW TO DRAFT A SKIRT. 



Draw a straight line from P to O. 
P is half way between M and K. 

Make width of skirt from K to Q ^ inch wider than forepart, and side body is from 
K to 1. 

From 7 to S is one-half the length of natural waist. 
Shape skirt as shown in Diagram, raising it 3/$ inch at U. 



HOW TO REGULATE THE SPRING 



A proportionate or normal figure will measure one inch more around the seat 

than breast, as follows : 36 B, 32 W, 37 S. Now if the seat measure is 38, add to 

spring of skirt at S ^ inch, and if the seat is 36 reduce the spring at S '^ inch. 
Increase the spring 33 inch for every inch it is over normal and decrease it ^ inch for 
every inch it is less than normal. 

This will regulate the spring in both frock and sack coats, and it will never fail it 
the measure is taken correctly. 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM 4. 



ANOTHER METHOD OF CUTTING A SKIRT. 
Draw straight line A, then place side body and forepart as shown in Diagram. Drop 
from G to H ,'., of the upper hip measure and shape top of skirt as shown in the Diagram, 
dropping down '4 '"ch at O, then draw line B, by placing the straight edge parallel with the 
side body from O to C is J^^ of the length of the waist of Coat, from C to D is ,',; of the hip 
measure, this will give the correct spring to skirt, as if a man takes a large hip measure he 
requires a large spring, if a small hip measure he takes a small spring, etc. - for proportion 
the hip measure should be i inch more than the breast measure. No. i shows the style of a 
P. A. skirt. No. 2 shows the cut-away skirt, and No. 3 shows how to cut a dress coat skirt ; 
the dress coat skirt must be cut down Y-i inch more at E, making it ,'., and ^ inch from 
straight line A, to top of skirt at E, from E to F is \ the distance from E to O. Make the 
width of the skirt at bottom \ or the same as from E to F ; shape as shown in Diagram. 
Make skirt J^ inch wider than the forepart or fullness over hip. 



HOW TO CUT A SLEEVE. 
Square lines A and B, go down from o to i is ,'.v, and from o to 2 is '4, from 2 to 3 is Y^ 
inch. Square lines i. 2 and 3. To find the proper width of sleeve, add your armscye measure 
\.o' Yi of breast measure, say 36 coat and 16 armscye, 16 and 18 are 34; take '4 of 34 for the 
width of arm, making it 8J^ inches from i to 4 on slanting line 5. Line 6 is half way 
between i and 4, Square line 6 up and down by line 5; 8 is half way between line 5 and 
the star. From i to 7 is ,'„. Draw a line from from 7 through 8, sweep by star from 4 to i. 
Dotted line showing the sweep. Shape over and under sleeve as shown in Diagram. 
Square down from 4 and apply your sleeve measure and get the length ; place corner of 
square on inside seam at hand, and let long arm of square rest on corner where lines 5 and 6 
meet, and square for bottom of sleeve at hand ; reverse square and draw line up to elbow. 
Shape as shown in diagram, adding about i inch over the elbow for shape on a small size 
sleeve, and in an extra large sleeve it will have to be reduced all the way from i down. 

21 



SLEEVES— Continued. 

HOW TO DRAFT A SLEEVE 

FOR A 36 COAT. 

First draw a line from A to K. 

A to B is ,'0 and to C is %. 

C to D is 34 inch, in all sizes. 

Square out lines B, C and D. 

B to E is ^ ; draw line from B to E. 

F is half way between B and E. 

Square line up and down from F. 

Sweep from B to E by star (2). 

Shape top of sleeve as shown in Diagram. 

Square down from E to H and measure down length of sleeve. 

Place corner of square at H, letting the long arm rest on F. 

Square across from H to I. 

Turn corner of square around to I and square up to K elbow, and shape sleeve as 
shown in Diagram, adding about one inch over elbow at K. Hollow the inside seam about 
^ inch or whatever shape is desired. 

B to G is ,',;, shape undersleeve as shown in Diagram, crossing line C at 3. 



HOW TO CUT A SLEEVE FOR 46 COAT. 

This sleeve is cut on the same principle as the 36, only the upper sleeve must be cut 
as shown in Diagram, coming inside construction line at C D and adding nothing at K. 

In cutting a fat man's sleeve, the following rule will be found to be correct : 

Take the armscye measure, say 21, to a 46 coat, 21 armscye and 23, half of breast 
measure added together, will give a scale of 44; now cut the sleeve on the division of 44, 
and it will come out the correct size. Of course you will have to use your judgment as to 
what kind of goods you are cutting, as soft goods will press in more fullness than broadcloth. 
Therefore a sleeve cut from cloth must be cut smaller than the cheviots. 

In cutting overcoat sleeves add at I and K on the outside, the extra width, the inside 
seam to remain where it is. 



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EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM 7. 



This Diagram is of a loose fitting Sack Overcoat. It is draughted the same as Sack 
Coat in Diagram 6, only there is no V taken out under arm. Make width of back 
from X to 2, \, making the back a little wider than in the close fitting Sack ; go out from 
2 to 3 .,\- of Br., and from 4 to 5, ,'„, from 8 to 9 is 2 '^^ inches , from 9 to 1 1 is 2^ for a 
Single, and 31^ for a Double-breasted Coat ; go out the same amount at 5, sweep from i 
to 4 by C, and from 6 to 7 by D. This will cut a loose-fitting Sack Coat ; regulate the 
spring as explained in Diagram 6. 

For a fat man's Sack add to the front all that your measure calls for, but do not 
disturb your side seam, as a corpulent man has it all in front. If the customer is extra 
large over the stomach make changes the same as shown in Frock Coat Draught, Diagram 
8. You will now ask why must there be more spring on a loose-fitting coat ? Because if 
it lays too tight on the hip it will hunch up, and you will have a coat with a balloon back 
in it. A loose-fitting Sack must hang off the hips a trifle to produce a nice hanging coat. 
A close-fitting coat is different ; it can be cut close all the way down. A close-fitting Sack 
is suitable for cheaper trade, whereas the loose and straight back fitting Sack is only for 
bon ton trade. 



ST 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM 8. 



HOW TO CUT A COAT FOR A CORPULENT MAN. 

Diagram 8 represents a fat man's coat, 44 breast and 46 waist, by adding two 
inches to breast and sweep up from A, then go out % of waist measure and add tw o 
inches, then draw Hne down from A, this will make the chest hollow, and a coat front 
cannot be cut in this shape. So add all that is needed from A to B making a straight front 
line, then cut out under arm from D to C, the amount added to front less '4 of an 
inch. Clear out front of armscye the same amount taken out under arm ; also cut off 
lower shoulder point the same amount. This is the only way to cut a fat man's coat, 
and get it in proper shape. A sack coat is cut the same way, also the vest. There 
are very few cutters that can cut a fat man's coat, the reason being that they have 
an idea that the fat man is built like the lean man, only larger ; but this is not the case, 
as the fat man will in most cases take a 40 back, both in length and breadth. And will 
require a 44 front, and measure 42 breast and waist. If you will follow my instructions 
in Diagrams 9 and 10 you will see my way of cutting the Corpulent Coat, by the aid 
of the self-varying shoulder measure. 



2U 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM 9. 



THE SELF-VARYING SHOULDER. 

The upper shoulder measure is taken from socket bone at O, around under arm up to 
socket bone. This measure taken snug will be for a 36 coat, 26 inches, or 2 inches more than 
^^ of the breast measure. Now this is proportion, and you must cut a proportioned coat from 
O to B, C and E, but if the upper shoulder measure was 28 and the breast 36, you will have 
a man with long neck and will hive to raise the back fro.n O to i, or making it the 
proportion ^ of 39 from C to i. But point B is '4 of 36 from C. Drawing the top line 
across to front 3. Now understand me right, the distance from C to B is always the same, '^ 
of breast measure, but the distance from B to A will be increased or decreased as the measure 
calls for. If you have a 24 upper shoulder and 36 breast, you would have a man with a very 
short neck, and you would have to reduce the length of top of back to line 2. Making it the 
proportion of 33 breast from 2 to C, but from C to B is the proportion of 36. On line A, 
A and X is proportion line ; i and 3 is high neck line, 2 and 4 is a short neck ; the distance 
from line A to line E, is called the depth of armscye. By looking at Diagram 18 (the Table 
of Proportions), it will tell you how to apply the upper shoulder measure. Find your upper 
shoulder measure on the Table of Proportions, then see what breast measure and what depth 
of armscye you have. It will also give you the length of shoulder strap. This measure 
taken carefully and applied as explained, will make the coat the right height in neck every 
time. Be very careful in taking this measure, and remember it is taken snug. This measure 
will make the coat higher or lower in the neck, but it will not make any more changes, so in 
order to find the sire of the blade, we will have to look up the lower shoulder measure in 
Diagram 10. 



\ 



EXPLANATIONS OF DIAGRAM 10. 



THE LOWER SHOULDER MEASURE. 

The Lower Shoulder Measure is taken from centre of back, between the shoulder, 
or I (of the Upper Shoulder Measure), down from O, around under arm and back to the same 
place. This measure will be one inch less than the Upper Shoulder Measure, and one inch 
more than -j of the breast take a 25 Lower Shoulder Measure, deduct one inch, making it 
24 ; half of 24 is 12, or -{ of half of 36, Breast Measure, from 3 to 6 A is 12 inches, or -3 of 
breast, or yi of lower shoulder, less ]4 inch. Now, if a man measure 27 lower shoulder, it 
shows that your man has a large blade, you will have to come forward to B 6. moving the 
armscye forward, also bringing your shoulder point forward and shortening the front shoulder 
strap. Now, if you get a man that takes a 23 Lower Shoulder Measure, you will have to 
come back to line C, moving the armscye back and making the blade smaller; this will also 
move the shoulder points back to line C at 8. Place corner of square at corner of A 8, letting 
arm of square come down to point A, at 6, square lines both ways, this will give you the 
back line, then slide up and down on this line at 8, same as you do on breast line at 6, 
this clearly illustrates the Lower Shoulder Measure. A is proportion, B shows a large 
blade, a straighter and shorter shoulder; C shows a small blade, a long shoulder strap 
and a crooked shoulder. See the proportion table for comparison of shoulder and breast 
measure. 



HOW TO TAKE A MEASURE. 



TO MEASURE FOR A COAT. 

First determine the full length of waist, and full length of coat, and mark with chalk, 
then start measuring, take upper shoulder measure from top of neck (socket bone) around 
under arm and up to the neck again ,• then take the lower shoulder measure from centre of 
back opposite sleeve seam around arm and back to same point ; next measure length of waist 
and full length of coat, then measure the width of back, then length of sleeve from under 
arm to hand coming down on hand the length desired for sleeve ; this, the sleeve length, 
must be taken with the square ; next measure around the armscye and call off the width at 
hand desired, then measure around the breast, and around the waist, and around top part of 
hip, where the waist seam of frock coat will come, and around the most prominent part of 
hip This completes the measure of all kinds of coats. 

TO MEASURE FOR A VEST. 

First take the length of roll from the socket bone to where the vest is intended to roll 
then the full length of the vest, and the length from the socket bone to the hip, for the 
length of hip, then breast and waist measure. In cutting a single vest, you can take the 
shoulder measure same as on the coat. All these measures are taken medium close except- 
ing the upper and lower shoulder measure, which is taken snug. 

TO MEASURE FOR TROUSERS. 

First take the length from waist-band to knee and to bottom on the outside, then take 
the inside length, then the waist, and then the most prominent part of hip, so thigh, knee, and 
bottom. In fat men's pants take an extra measure for the height of waist in front, also an 
extra measure around the upper part of hip, between the waist and seat measure. 



NOTES ON MEASURING. 



When a customer presents himself to be measured it is well to first take a look at the 
coat he has on, and also take the length of the waist, and full length of the coat. This will 
be a guide to the cutter in taking the correct lengths when measuring. After taking these 
observations, finding out what style of a coat the customer wants, etc., ask him to please 
remove his coat. See that his vest is buttoned up, and if it sits too loose buckle it up in 
back close enough to confine the undergarments in their proper place while measuring. 

The shoulder measure should be taken snug but not tight. The breast measure 
should be taken medium easy for a slim man, and quite snug for a fleshy man. 

The waist measures must not be taken too tight, as the coat must fit easy (not loose 
and baggy) around the waist. 

The seat measure is taken medium close for a coat, and snug for trousers. 

The vest measures are taken over the vest, the same as for a coat, only reduce the 
measure J^ inch less than the coat, as follows : 

Coat 36 B, 32 W. 

Vest35>^ B, 31 14 W. 



35 



PRACTICAL REMARKS ON COAT CUTTING. 



REMARKS ON THE FROCK COAT DRAUGHT. 

Diagram 2 represents a proportionate draught, 36 breast and 32 waist. In cutting a 
coat by measure the only change that is necessary is to add to front all that the waist 
measure calls for, as shown in Diagrams 3 and 8. The rest of the draught remains 
proportionate. By studying the upper and lower shoulder measure as shown in Diagrams 
9 ami 10 you can change the location of neck and shoulders according to the shape of the 
customer you have measured. Always take out Jf between side body and back, and ^\ 
between side body and forepart at waist ; if you get a man with a very small waist, never go 
back of front line M, but take it out at N, between side body and forepart. 

REMARKS ON FULL DRESS COAT. 

As a Dress Coat is worn open and not intended to button, it requires less front at waist 
than the P. A. Frock. One inch added to the waist measure is all that is needed, and to the 
breast measure 2 ^/^ inches or the same as the Albert Coat. To make this coat fit closer, we 
take out at N i^ of an inch extra. The width of lappel can only be guarded by the prevailing 
style ; however it should be only wide enough at the waist seam to allow the button hole to 
go in, say about i^ inches at waist seam and about 2 inches at the top. The step of the 
skirt should be about J^ ot an inch wide. 

In cutting a fat man's coat, or a coat for a man that stands very erect, I have found the 
following measures very correct, ist. Measure the length of shoulder strap from the socket 
bone to bottom of armscye in front, then go down j! of the upper shoulder measure on the 
back between the shoulders, or, if this is too complicated, go down 5^ inches in all sizes, and 
measure from this point over shoulder to bottom of armscye, this will give a prove measure ; 
if these two measures come out too long for the front strap, lower the armscye and move 
down the side body at P, in Diagram 2, say yi inch, in the most extreme case, then make 



forepart J^ inch longer waist, or enough to correspond with the length oi the side body. If 
your measure should call for more than % inch it is taken too loose, and in such a case the 
best thing to do is to stay by the system. 

PRACTICAL REMARKS ON VEST CUTTING. 

Now in my practice I cut all vests, collar or no collar, the same as shown in the 
diagram. When I want a collar on the vest, I cut the cilicia collar the shape that I want the 
collar to be. and sew it on to the edge of the vest, and not press the seam open. This will 
cut a better collar than the old style. As there is no seam to show through the collar when 
pressing the vest, however this has nothing to do with the fit of the vest, I merely mention it 
as I find it an improvement on the old style. 



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THE INVERNESS 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM 13. 



THE INVERNESS OR KING WILLIAM OVERCOAT. 

This is an over-garment that very few cutters know how to cut; it is an over-garment 
mostly used as a Dress Overcoat, or in other words it is worn over the Dress Coat, as it 
slips off and on very easy without "mussing" the under coat. 

It is cut almost the same as any other sack coat; first, square lines A and B, from o 
to I is ^; from o to 2 is J/^ ; from 2 to 3 is ^ ; from o to 4 is the natural length of waist; 
and to 5 is the full length. Square lines i, 2. 3, 4 and 5; from o to X is J^ of breast 
measure; square down this line, from 7 breast line to 8 is ^ ; from 8 to 9 is % ; square lines 
8 and 9; from o to K is i^. Draw line from 8 to K, from 5 to E is J^ of breast. Draw 
line from E to F and shape back as shown in Diagram. Rounding the back at F, this 
completes the back. From C to D is ,'g of the hip measure. Draw line from P through D 
to L; this will give the spring; shape from G to D as shown in diagram; from X to J is ,', ; 
sweep from 4 to Y by J ; from Y to 6 is ,', of breast measure, making it looser around the 
hip than the ordinary sack coat; from 7 to 10 is 2 inches. Draw front centre line from X 
through 10 and 6, then add from 10 to 11 i3/( inches, or whatever lap is desired, and shape 
front as shown in diagram. Cut back out and place point K on J and finish shoulder the 
same as any other coat, only making the shoulder seam straight. Make width of shoulder 
one and one-half inch smaller than the ordinary coat shoulder is; shape arm-hole from 
R to line 3 at G, as shown in Diagram, and notch the back at G, make same distance 
from G to L as from G to E; sweep from L to N by X, for length of forepart in front; 
this will finish the Inverness. Next is the half cape, which is very plain. Drawing line from 
shoulder to H ; His ^ from i , or half way between i and 2 ; sweep by J for length and 
finish as shown in Diagram. In some cases the cape is made to button same as the coat in 
front, in such a case add to cape in front making it i inch wider than centre line, 10 and 6. 
The collar is cut on this coat the same as any other coat. 



48 



EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM 14. 



THE CAPE. 

The shoulder cape, is at the present time worn quite extensive, over shoulders on the 
ordinary ulster coat, and made with a ^ of an inch band around the neck, with button holes, 
and buttous on the under collar of coat, so that it can be buttoned on and off at will. It can 
be cut from the overcoat pattern or from the ordinary coat draft, it being cut one size larger 
than the coat in order to make it large enough to go on the top of the coat. It must measure 
around, opposite the breast line, .' more than the breast measure. Take for example a TjJ 
coat, the cape wants to be 38, half of 38 is 19, being the half of breast; .' of 19 is 6.'j inches, 
add 6.^ to 19 making it 25^. This the cape must measure to go over the arms, the heavy 
lines showing the cape. To draft the cape draw first the coat draft, then draw a line from' C 
to D, then shape back part as shown in Diagram, coming through point at E, down to 8, 
then get length of cape from o to 7 from o to star at 2, is '4 of breast; sweep from 7 to 8, by 
star at 2 ; from A to 3 is J/^ of breast less ]/2 inch, and from 5 to 4 is ^ of breast less yi inch. 
Cutting out from 3 to 4 as shown in Diagram, from o to B is % and .,\ same as coat draft. 
Shape shoulder same as on the coat coming down to 9, crossing line B, measure off same 
length on forepart to 9 as back is to 8, sweep from 9 to 10, by 6 and finish as represented and 
the cape is cut. 

REMARK.S ON THE CAPE. 

In cutting a shoulder cape without the cut in shoulder, the back and forepart must be 
cut on halves, so if the entire width of the cape, opposite the breast line, is 26^ inches the 
back must be % or 13 '4 inches, and the front ^ or \2,\i inches. Be very careful in getting 
the seam to run on the centre of the arm and shoulder, and have the seam sewed short over 
the rounding of the shoulder, by taking an easy measure over the arms, around the circum- 
ference of the body, just below the shoulder, and adding 2 inches to the measure for making 
up, and you will find it to come out right. 



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EXPLANATION OF DIAGRAM 16. 



THE FAT MAN S TROUSERS. 



The fat man's trousers are cut the same as any others below the seat, and addinef 
more to the front at waist. Make same distance from B to P as it is from P to C, then go 
out from B to D J-^ of waist measure, then take off ', the distance from C to D, and add this 
to B, making the extra width : in front and J in the side, then add from C to E, J/^ the 
distance from C to D. Drop the fork % inch at S, add to back part from H to I, same as 
from C to I), then apply waist measure same as in ordinary pants. From P to H is ,',. or 
sweep from F to H by L, for height of waist behind. 

Diagram B shows the Broad Fail pants the dotted line being the forepart, and the 
solid line showing the fall bearer and where the pocket should be, if a side pocket is wanted 
place it in the side seam, same as any other pants. The amount of buttons in the broad fall, 
being all the way from 4 to 7, as the customer may want it. The fall bearer must be cut 
high enough to make up for the waist band. Diagram C, showing the back part. The 
dotted line representing the stitching for the waist band, the opening of the broad fall in the 
side must be : of the rise or from S to E on Diagram A. 

Diagram D. This shows the old style of the Small Fall pants, the width of the fall is 
J of the waist measure, and the opening is ^ of the rise, furnished with a band /g of an inch 
wide and a triangle sewed out with silk in the end. In other respects they are made like the 
broad fall pants. This style of pants is not made very often; I have only cut a few riding 
pants of this style. 



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TABLE OF PROPORTIONS 





Breast 
Measure 


Upper 
Shoulder 


Lower 
Shoulder 


Depth 

of 

Arm Seye 


Length of 
Shoulder 

Strap 






121 


IS 


17 


0'-' 


8 


0) 




25 


186« 


176/i 


08* 


838 


1 § 




20 


193a 


188ji 


7 


8»^ 


3 §. 




27 


20 


19 


TH 


9 


'*' IH P^ 




28 


20-8 


195^ 


7'* 


9*8 


(M |g "^ 

a ^ § 




2i) 


21«^ 


20 88 


1% 


9»i, 


2 -d a 
^-5 « 




30 


22 


21 


8>8 


10 






31 


22^8 


215« 


S}i 


1088 


0) 




32 


23 »8 


2288 


88-1 


103l 




■3 


33 


24 


23 


9 


11 




o 
p. 
o 


34 


245^ 


23'N 


9«4 


1138 




fi 


35 


2518 


12 1 • .s 


9!a 


1138 




^ 


30 


20 


25 


9^ 


12 




o 


37 


2038 


25^4 


10 Js 


1238 




o 

u 


38 
3i) 


27»s 


20 88 


108s 


128i 




28 


27 


lOS 


13 






40 


28^8 


27°8 


10*^ 


133s 






41 


2J>88 


28 8» 


11? 8 


13 '8 


7 

O 
J3 




42 


30 


29 


ll»i 


14 


fe o 




43 


30=8 


29=8 


ll'ij 


1'488 


^ f-c O 




44 


31»8 


30 3^ 


. ll!^ii 


148^ 


m 41 to 
r Measi 
an Prop 




45 


32 


31 


12»i, 


15 




46 


32'-'s 


31=^8 


128« 


15 »8 


2^5 




47 


33 ?« 


32 88 


1208 


15's 


CO 




48 


34 


33 


13 


10 





t- 



TABLE OF PROPORTIONS. 



The normal or proportionate figure is a man that measures as follows : Height, 5 feet 
4 inches; breast, 36; waist, 32; seat, 37; upper shoulder, 26; lower shoulder, 25; inside 
length of sleeve for this figure would be 17.2, and inside length of leg. 31. 

Now if every customer that we get to measure would be in the same proportion we 
would have no need of using any proof or balance measures. A 36 coat would fit any 36 size 
man, and everybody would measure just the same proportions as laid down in in the opposite 
side (in Table of Proportions). Understand me right: These measures laid down is not 
what an average man will measure. It simply tells you in what proportion your customer is 
that you are cutting a coat for. I will here take a corpulent man that measures 46^ breast, 
47 waist and 47 seat, his height (in an average of fat men^ will be 5 feet 8 inches; his 
shoulder measure will only be 31 upper, and t,i lower; therefore his coat must be 
rut lower in the neck. F"ind 3 i upper shoulder measure in Table of Proportions and you will 
find that 31 shoulder is the proportion of 435^ breast only (see Diagram 9). Now take a 
tall slim man and he will measure in height 6 feet, and not measure any more than 35 breast, 
his shoulder measure will be 27, being the proportion of 371^ breast, making the coat 
considerable higher in the neck than what a normal pattern would be. Now the lower 
shoulder measure locates the front armscye just the same as the upper locates the height of 
neck. Tht-se measures are fully explained in Diagrams 9 and 10. 

The following method is used in finding out what proportion the shoulder measures 
are in: Take a 26 upper shoulder 2 inches less is 24; add yi of 24 to itself, making it 
36 breEst; take one inch off Irom the lower shoulder measure and use the same 
method as the upper to find out in what proportions the blade is in. 



53 



NOTES ON MAKING GARMENTS. 



I will first state that I am a practical Journeyman Tailor as well as a Cutter 
My father being a tailor I was born and raised in a tailor-shop, and I pride myself on 
having been one of Mr. E. Ely's best coat makers when only a mere boy, and I have 
the work book yet showing where I have made as high as $45.00 per week making 
coats; so when I speak of coat-making I take it from real practice and not from guess-work. 
No matter how good a garment is cut it will not fit unless made up properly. 

HOW TO MAKE A COAT. 

According to the present style of cutting there need not be so much stretching done 
as formerly. Stretch the shoulder across about ^ to ^ of an inch according to shape of 
customer, the armscye to be stretched in front about 3/^ only, the side body should be 
stretched a trifle at the hollow of the waist to give the coat a natural curve at the waist. 
The amount of side body to be stretched cannot be to any given rule, as the cloth has 
something to do with it. Extra care should be taken in stretching soft goods, as the coat 
is very apt to get too long in the waist behind. It is always well to give the coat maker 
warning not to get the coat too long in the back; it is also a good thing to give the length 
of the waist to the coat maker. The armscye from the back arm seam of the sleeve around 
the blade to the centre under the arm should be held in a trille by putting in a linen thread 
or a stay tape. The blade at this portion of the body is rounded and the holding in of the 
back part of armscye conforms to the natural shape of the body, preventing the coat from 
drawing or wrinkling at the top of side body when the arm is in motion. The under 
sleeve should be pnt in a trifle full over the side body, and the seam should not be pressed 
open over the side body; this will allow the seam to fall gracefully over the side body and 
give it length enough when the arm is thrown forward. The collar should be put on easy, 
as a short collar will spoil the fit of the coat The first thing to do when a coat dont fit is to 
look after your collar, and if short take it off before altering the coat elsewhere. The skirt 
should be put on front J^ to .)4; of an inch full to the forepart over the hip. In a P. A. Frock 



54 



or Dress Coat the lappel should be sewed on even below the roll, as a short lappel will make 
a bad looking front. There should be a great deal of care taken in basting under the canvas. 
A good many tailors have the idea that the canvas should be tight in the breast of the coat; 
this is a very bad practice, as it will never make a good front. The canvas must be fully as 
large as the goods to make a good shaped front; press your canvas in good shape before 
basting under. In padding your breast do so from the lining side and use fine cotton and 
take short stitches on the side that goes next to the goods and do not draw the stitches 
tight as it will draw up the canvas and show through the broadcloth and dress worsteds. 
The stay tape should be put on fair, never draw it in very much as a short front edge is just 
as bad as a long one ; if raw edge stitch close up to the stay tape ; if bound there is no need 
of having any stay in the edges as it only makes them heavy and clumsy looking There 
should be more care taken in basting on the facing on all coats than the tailors usually do. 
The facing should not be held on too full as it will not stand press, but come back when 
exposed to the damp air. In overcoats the facing is very apt to get too short as the front 
edge has been held in with the stay tape. There should be a plait laid on the forepart 
lining at the waist seam, also in the centre of back and on the skirt lining over the hips. 
The neck pad should be put on easy. It would make a book of 300 pages if I was to 
describe all the points in coat making, so I will only give a few hints in pressing. 



HOW TO PRESS A COAT. 



The old style of hard pressing a coat before sponging the gloss off is a mistake, as it 
will take a good deal more steam to get the gloss ofif after allowing the garment to get cold, 
therefore, hard press with a fairly hot iron and immediately follow with the sponge cloth 
and a red hot iron, and you will not only have an elegant pressed coat, but will do the 
pressing in half the time. The light weight goods and German cloths will stand very little 
sponging; they must be dry pressed. I must here explain why this mode of pressing is 
superior to the old style. Take for example the canvas breast, and sponge hard on it. and 



you will find that it all puckers up, but if you hard press it first, and then sponge it, you 
will have sufficient heat in the canvas to dry up the steam, and the canvas will not pucker. 

HOW TO DRY PRESS. 

Take a piece of broadcloth and a piece of linen Holland and sew the two together, lay 
the cloth side to the garment you press; wet the linen with a sponge and press dry, and you 
will have your garment dry pressed without getting it glossed. Farmer satin or other smooth 
faced goods, will take the place of broadcloth but the cloth is the best. 

VEST MAKING. 

On the subject of vest making there is not much to be said. So far as the putting the 
vest together, it is easy to learn; in joining it up in the sides, be sure and have the back and 
forepart even at top under arm, also even at the neck, in putting the shoulders together, the 
back should go on easy to the forepart. A good vest maker is one that is very neat and 
tasty, with some artistic skill in forming a good shape in the collar, breast and shoulder. 
The front edge should be held in very little. 

now TO MAKE TROUSERS. 

It does not require an extra fine sewer to be a good pantaloon maker, but he should 
have some artistic skill in shaping the legs, the pantaloons require no stretching before 
sewing them up; put them together as they are notched and then press them in shape, never 
glue the buttons with rubber tissue, as it will spoil the button after one week's wear, and you 
will have trouble with them. In very light weight goods, a strip of canvas cut on the bias 
should be put under the turn-up at bottom ; in joining the pants up, the seam should be 
stretched about % inch on the back part in fork, to make the pants easy in stride. 





ADVICE TO YOUNG CUTTERS. 



Young cutters should not allow themselves to become involved in the mechanical repe- 
tition of producing and reproducing the same thing from day to day. The art of cutting is 
nothing more nor less than to please the customer, and in so doing your employer is also 
pleased, and you will have the reputation of being a good cutter. The position as a cutter, 
naturally brings you in contact with all classes of people, and a cutter never should allow 
himself to argue with a customer on any subject. It requires lots of attention from the cutter 
to the customer, as most customers have a weakness for attention, and if attended to in a 
genteel and polite manner (not dudish or foppish) the customer will have less fault to find with 
the fit of the clothes, as well as the price paid for them. There is nothing to be lost by being 
civil and polite to everybody, but everything to be gained, even though you do not care for 
the customer's trade. When a boy, I heard a remark from a tailor to a customer who was 
abusing him most shamefully about a coat; the customer finally asked the tailor, " Why don't 
you get mad ? I think I have insulted you enough." The tailor answered, "No, you have 
not insulted me. " "Well, how is that ?" the customer asked. "Well, you see, Mr. Brown," 
the tailor replied, "a gentleman would not insult me, and one that is not a gentleman cannot, 
as I take no notice of him." Now, whenever a customer has acted ugly. I have always 
remembered this remark, and it has done me lots of good. To be a successful cutter, one 
must study human nature ; study etiquette and how to be graceful, never allow yourself to 
get excited; never allow yourself to insult anybody in your business, and don't allow anybody 
to scare you by telling you that they have got "ah - 1 of a fit; " it may not be half as bad as 
the customer makes it. A cutter should avoid the use of tobacco in all its forms, never smoke 
in the store, and avoid intoxicating beverages, hold your breath when in front of a customer, 
he don't like the smell of whisky, onions, limberger cheese, etc , he may be fond of all these 
things himself but he don't like the smell of it from anyone else. A cutter is considered an 
artist, and is a gentleman, and if you don't think anything of yourself, how can you expect 
anybody else to think anything of you. So a successful cutter must be a gentleman in every 
respect, as well as being a good cutter. The two combined makes an A i cutter and such a 
man can always secure a good position and good pay. 

7 57 



*-»®j)[[^<-<-» 



Our Cutting School Terms, Etc 

Full instructions in Garment Cutting, including this Book, . . . 5100.00 

Coat System alone, ........ 50.00 

Vest System alone, . . . . . , . 25.00 

Pants System alone, ........ 25.00 

Half Price to Cutters wanting to change their system. 
The Paramount Cutter alone, ....... 5.00 

Private Consultation in Cutting, ..... from 55.00 to I20.00 

Instructions given in English, German and the Scandinavian Languages. 
Cutting School open Daily from 8 to 4. and evenings from 6.30 to 9.30. 
For further information address, 

THE CHAS. J. STONE CO. CUTTING SCHOOL, 

191 AND 193 S. Clark St., Chicago, III. 



*->>@M^$^«- 



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58 



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LIBRftRY OF CONGRESS 




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